Ford Mustang

Anyone with a pulse is aware of how well the 2005 Ford Mustang has been received. Of course, that makes sense - it’s a car that offers contemporary styling with a definite retro flair and a choice of two desirable engines. That car is so hot, in fact, that its rumored that factory executives and designers are far behind a long list of customers waiting for 2005’s gotta have it car. Apparently Ford isn’t satisfied, though, so at the 2005 New York Auto Show company officials are debuting the 2007 Shelby Cobra GT500an asphalt-munching beast that traces its heritage back to a highly praised 1968 model of the same name.
With the minds from Ford’s SVT (Special Vehicle Team) unit and the legendary Carroll Shelby working together on this project, it was almost certainly a guaranteed success. The result of this collaboration will surely put goofy grins on the faces of Mustang and power lovers everywhere: 450 horsepower, 450 lb.-ft. of torque (oh yeah, baby!), Brembo calipers, 19-inch alloy wheels, and a price that should be in line with that of the previous Mustang Cobra model. And according to project designers, the 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 “will be the most powerful production Mustang ever built.”

The most powerful factory-built Ford Mustang in history takes to the street next year, following a unique collaboration between performance car legend Carroll Shelby and the Ford Special Vehicle Team (SVT).

Legendary car builder Carroll Shelby not only took part in the development of the 2006 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500, but he also participated in the car’s unveiling at the 2005 New York International Auto Show on March 23, 2005. The 2006 model was flanked on stage by two examples of one of Mr. Shelby’s previous projects - the 1968 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500.

The 2006 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 is another example of what’s working with domestic car companies. Designers of the new Shelby Cobra GT500 have constructed a standout product that is obviously desireable but lacking representation in the market place. And, unlike other domestics that create and push high-powered versions of cars that already don’t sell, the new Shelby Cobra GT500 is based on a vehicle that consumers want so much that they’re willing to wait for it and pay sticker price or more.

In a time when domestic share of the automotive market continues to decline and when domestics are often forced to offer significant incentives, the success of an the home-built Mustang is extremely significant. And the fact that Ford sees benefits in devoting time and resources to create a more expensive model, the Shelby Cobra GT500, further validates the idea that Americans will buy appealing domestic cars. Lastly, both the regular Mustang and the Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 show that the muscle car segment is alive and prospering.

Ford plans to start producing the Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 for the 2006 model year. The Shelby Cobra GT500 made its debut at the 2005 New York International Show and shared the stage with the 2006 Ford Sport Trac Adrenalin.

Officials at Ford are tight-lipped on pricing for the 2006 Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500, but they do say that pricing will be in the same range as the previous Cobra, which had a starting price in the mid $30s. However, since the new model is better in most every way, we expect pricing to start at least in the high $30s. Regardless of the price, you can rest assured that rebates and special financing will not be available.

While Ford officials haven’t discussed top-speed specs, they have released plenty of engine data that suggests the 2006 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 will be a screamer. Providing power is a supercharged 5.4-liter, 32-valve V8 with Ford GT cylinder heads. Horsepower is rated at 450 and torque registers at 450 lb.-ft. Managing all of that oomph is a six-speed manual transmission, and controlling the ride is an independent MacPherson strut front suspension and a multi-link live setup in the rear. Front and rear stabilizer bars are standard, as are 19-inch alloys wrapped in 255/45 tires. Slowing it all down are cross-drilled discs (14-inch front, 13-inch rear) with Brembo calipers.

There’s lots to like about the 2006 Ford Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500, from the styling to the Shelby racing stripes to the two-tone leather interior, but what takes the cake is the supercharged engine and SVT-tuned suspension. Gobs of power is downright dangerous without a suspension system (and brakes) that can keep it all under control, and a sophisticated, tight suspension is wasted on an underpowered vehicle. The Shelby Cobra GT500 looks to offer an admirable balance of power and control.

Building the 2006 Mustang Shelby Cobra GT500 is really a no-brainer for Ford. The 2005 Mustang has been a huge success so far, so much so that the company has had to ramp up production. And both SVT and Shelby fans are numerous and anxiously awaiting the arrival of new products. And with the only real muscle car competitor being the 400-horsepower Pontiac GTO, Ford’s got plenty of room to play with their Mustang lineup, and that includes adding the Shelby Cobra GT500. As long as Ford doesn’t misstate power ratings as they’ve done with past Cobra models, the company will likely have little trouble selling as many as they choose to build.

“I knew the car looked good. I knew it should be an excellent car,” said Shelby. “But when I got into it and drove it, I said the same thing that everyone is going to say when they drive it, and that’s ‘wow.’ The car feels like it has a lot more horsepower than it has. But not only that, it gets the power down the ground. It’s everything I’ve dreamed of. I can’t tell you how proud I am to be a part of SVT and this car.”

If you plan on using your stock tires, or have few modifications, the stock frame is fine (with the exception of a convertable - which case subframe connectors are a must have item if you want your doors shutting properly 10 years from now). If you are going to race on slicks, or even drag radials, you better have subframe connectors. Subframe connectors prevent the car from twisting due to the torque of a hard launch. Without them you can cause damage to the alignment of your frame making doors not line up, and even creases in your roof. Welded subframe connectors are preferred because the will not loosen up over time, which diminishes their effectiveness.

A car making serious horsepower and running slicks also requires strengthening of the stock torque boxes. This is one of the weakest areas of the Mustang frame, and will break if you aren’t careful. There are some companies that make bolt on kits to strengthen, but again I would prefer to have them welded.

A roll bar or cage will also help keep the frame nice and straight. If you are running low ET’s, you will have to get one anyway, but they do add a little “meanness” to the car, and could save your life if you roll at high speed.

You’ll notice a difference with them too. The car will feel “tighter” and much more stable.

It seems that many people have trouble with the way their 5.0 Mustang idles. Symptoms are usually a stumbling or rough idle which may be the result of modifications, or any number of other factors that may contribute to the problem. Clogged Emissions Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valves or Idle Air Bypass (IAB) solenoids are often to blame. A bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) will cause the engine to “hunt” for a proper idle setting. If you are experiencing idle problems first check the IAB. If it has large amounts of carbon deposits in it you may need to clean it using regular carburetor cleaner. You will have to remove it to do this, DO NOT clean it while it is on the car! If you have checked to make sure that your EGR, IAB, and TPS are clean and properly set and you are still experiencing problems try the following:
1. Clear the EEC-IV’s idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes.
2. Disconnect the Idle air bypass solonoid
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with stop screw on throttle body (900 rpm works great with E303 or larger cam)
5. Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid*Optional — set TPS to 0.90 - 0.95 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts MAKE SURE!) Use a digital volt meter!
6. Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.
7. Turn off engine for two minutes
8. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on.
9. Turn engine off again. Your computer should have now re-learned the new idle settings. This procedure assumes that you have a clean IAB valve. If it is carboned up then you may need to remove it and clean it with carburetor cleaner.

F.Y.I.:
For people that dont know you have to take off the neg. battery cable first and always put it back on last when disconecting both battery cables.

(taken from a www.ModdedMustangs.com post by ICantDo55)

How to bump up your timing

Wondering how to bump up your timing? Here ya go!
1. First things first. You’ll need a few things: a timing light, a distributor wrench or a ratchet and socket that will fit the distributor hold down bolt, and a little know how.

2. The first thing you’ll have to do is disconnect the spout connector. Make sure the car is off when you do this. On 87-93 cars its at the end of a wire that is hanging near the distributor. On 94-95’s its near the passenger side strut tower. The reason you disconnect the spout connector is so the computer doesn’t automatically change the timing when you move the distributor, which will let you set the base timing. Oh and whatever you do….Don’t lose the spout connector.

3. Next you’ll have to connect the timing light. With most lights you have to connect the positive and negative clips onto the positive and negative terminals on the battery. Then you clip the inductive lead of the timing light onto the number one (1) spark plug wire. If you don’t happen to know which one that is on a Mustang, then I’ll tell you. If you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine its the first spark plug wire on the left side of the engine

4. The next thing you will need to do is start the car. Before you do so there are a few things to look out for. First make sure there aren’t any wires hanging near the belts, pulleys or fan You’ll also want to check to make sure you can see the actual timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Some times is easier to get some whiteout and crawl under the car and mark where you’d like the timing to be set at, such as 14 degrees.

5. Before you start the car, loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Don’t take it all of the way out, just loosen it a little. If you take it all of the way out the distributor gear may skip timing when you start the car up, which isn’t a good thing.
Now start the car, and point the timing light at the timing marks on the balancer and pull the trigger (if it has one). You should see the light flashing on and off, and you should be able to see the timing marks, or the one mark that you made with the whiteout. Be careful, don’t let the timing light, or even worse your hands get caught in the belts or hit with the fan.

6. While holding the base of the distributor (not the top near the plug wires) turn it very slowly until you get the timing where you want. Then tighten the distributor hold down bolt and re-check the timing to make sure the distributor didn’t move. Don’t forget to re-connect the spout connector too.

7. There you go! You’re all set!!! There are a few things you should know. Ford set the timing at 10 degrees from the factory so you could use low octane fuel. If you bump up your timing then you’ll need to use a higher octane fuel, usually 91 octane. Although I’ve seen and heard of people running 18 degrees of timing without having trouble its really not recommended. When you set your timing too high your engine will ping, which will cause bad things to happen like blown pistons and head gaskets.

Try setting your timing at 14 and take a ride. If it doesn’t ping then you can try setting it higher, but once it starts to ping turn it back down a degree or two. Basically what we are saying is be careful and, if you don’t under stand any of this have someone who does help you. Remember test on a hot day with the engine hot. That would show the pinging the easiest.

(info taken from