Ford Mustang

If you plan on using your stock tires, or have few modifications, the stock frame is fine (with the exception of a convertable - which case subframe connectors are a must have item if you want your doors shutting properly 10 years from now). If you are going to race on slicks, or even drag radials, you better have subframe connectors. Subframe connectors prevent the car from twisting due to the torque of a hard launch. Without them you can cause damage to the alignment of your frame making doors not line up, and even creases in your roof. Welded subframe connectors are preferred because the will not loosen up over time, which diminishes their effectiveness.

A car making serious horsepower and running slicks also requires strengthening of the stock torque boxes. This is one of the weakest areas of the Mustang frame, and will break if you aren’t careful. There are some companies that make bolt on kits to strengthen, but again I would prefer to have them welded.

A roll bar or cage will also help keep the frame nice and straight. If you are running low ET’s, you will have to get one anyway, but they do add a little “meanness” to the car, and could save your life if you roll at high speed.

You’ll notice a difference with them too. The car will feel “tighter” and much more stable.

It seems that many people have trouble with the way their 5.0 Mustang idles. Symptoms are usually a stumbling or rough idle which may be the result of modifications, or any number of other factors that may contribute to the problem. Clogged Emissions Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valves or Idle Air Bypass (IAB) solenoids are often to blame. A bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) will cause the engine to “hunt” for a proper idle setting. If you are experiencing idle problems first check the IAB. If it has large amounts of carbon deposits in it you may need to clean it using regular carburetor cleaner. You will have to remove it to do this, DO NOT clean it while it is on the car! If you have checked to make sure that your EGR, IAB, and TPS are clean and properly set and you are still experiencing problems try the following:
1. Clear the EEC-IV’s idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes.
2. Disconnect the Idle air bypass solonoid
3. Reconnect battery
4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with stop screw on throttle body (900 rpm works great with E303 or larger cam)
5. Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid*Optional — set TPS to 0.90 - 0.95 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts MAKE SURE!) Use a digital volt meter!
6. Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.
7. Turn off engine for two minutes
8. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on.
9. Turn engine off again. Your computer should have now re-learned the new idle settings. This procedure assumes that you have a clean IAB valve. If it is carboned up then you may need to remove it and clean it with carburetor cleaner.

F.Y.I.:
For people that dont know you have to take off the neg. battery cable first and always put it back on last when disconecting both battery cables.

(taken from a www.ModdedMustangs.com post by ICantDo55)

How to bump up your timing

Wondering how to bump up your timing? Here ya go!
1. First things first. You’ll need a few things: a timing light, a distributor wrench or a ratchet and socket that will fit the distributor hold down bolt, and a little know how.

2. The first thing you’ll have to do is disconnect the spout connector. Make sure the car is off when you do this. On 87-93 cars its at the end of a wire that is hanging near the distributor. On 94-95’s its near the passenger side strut tower. The reason you disconnect the spout connector is so the computer doesn’t automatically change the timing when you move the distributor, which will let you set the base timing. Oh and whatever you do….Don’t lose the spout connector.

3. Next you’ll have to connect the timing light. With most lights you have to connect the positive and negative clips onto the positive and negative terminals on the battery. Then you clip the inductive lead of the timing light onto the number one (1) spark plug wire. If you don’t happen to know which one that is on a Mustang, then I’ll tell you. If you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine its the first spark plug wire on the left side of the engine

4. The next thing you will need to do is start the car. Before you do so there are a few things to look out for. First make sure there aren’t any wires hanging near the belts, pulleys or fan You’ll also want to check to make sure you can see the actual timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Some times is easier to get some whiteout and crawl under the car and mark where you’d like the timing to be set at, such as 14 degrees.

5. Before you start the car, loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Don’t take it all of the way out, just loosen it a little. If you take it all of the way out the distributor gear may skip timing when you start the car up, which isn’t a good thing.
Now start the car, and point the timing light at the timing marks on the balancer and pull the trigger (if it has one). You should see the light flashing on and off, and you should be able to see the timing marks, or the one mark that you made with the whiteout. Be careful, don’t let the timing light, or even worse your hands get caught in the belts or hit with the fan.

6. While holding the base of the distributor (not the top near the plug wires) turn it very slowly until you get the timing where you want. Then tighten the distributor hold down bolt and re-check the timing to make sure the distributor didn’t move. Don’t forget to re-connect the spout connector too.

7. There you go! You’re all set!!! There are a few things you should know. Ford set the timing at 10 degrees from the factory so you could use low octane fuel. If you bump up your timing then you’ll need to use a higher octane fuel, usually 91 octane. Although I’ve seen and heard of people running 18 degrees of timing without having trouble its really not recommended. When you set your timing too high your engine will ping, which will cause bad things to happen like blown pistons and head gaskets.

Try setting your timing at 14 and take a ride. If it doesn’t ping then you can try setting it higher, but once it starts to ping turn it back down a degree or two. Basically what we are saying is be careful and, if you don’t under stand any of this have someone who does help you. Remember test on a hot day with the engine hot. That would show the pinging the easiest.

(info taken from